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Todd and Amanda Wright
P.O. Box 546
Gumare, Botswana
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Chickens sleep in trees and other weird stuff

LESSONS LEARNED AFTER 2 YEARS IN BOTSWANA

This week we reached our 2 year anniversary of living as Peace Corps volunteers in Botswana.  As I was walking down memory lane this week-- seeing the 56 other new faces of anxious Americans, watching the African continent come into the horizon after 14 hours on board our plane, eating our first traditional Botswana meal upon arrival- I couldn’t help but feel how “green” we were back then. 

The first few months of living here (believe me, they did NOT feel like a just a few months) we were like children finding our way around the world. Nervous, inquisitive, frustrated and astonished at what you would consider the simplest of things (riding in a car! Eggs sold in our village?! Chickens come when they’re called?! Rope: the developing world’s Duct Tape, can fix anything from a broken down car to a chair).
Fast forward two years and we now feel like veterans. We secretly giggle at the struggles and astonishments of the newer inductees (don’t judge! There’s not a lot to do hereJ ): because we’ve been there. We teach them how to talk to their co-workers to get what they want, how to make their meat chewable without hours of cooking and the best techniques for bearing through the weather. 

In light of all this, I decided to sit down and make a “serious list” of “Things I’ve learned Since Coming to Botswana”.  I’ll take these lessons with me through the rest of my life….

Our very productive garden the first year. We learned to garden in pure sand!
  • Chickens, like most other birds, sleep in trees! They’re especially fond of lemon trees. Also, despite what movies have taught us throughout the years, roosters do not crow at dawn. All chickens crow, squawk or otherwise make a terrible racket at ALL hours of the night!

  • Free range livestock come “home” at night. You don’t even have to round ‘em up! They just know! Amazing! 

  • If you let them, dogs will take care of themselves. Yep, all that pampering and tending to you do for your dog…...is actually for you. Ok, maybe with the exception of man-made dogs that have been bred into stupidity. Dogs can and will find their own food. They heal their own wounds. They make themselves well again when they are sick (with a few exceptions). They get rid of ticks and other pests. They live in and take care of their pack. They play and fight other dogs and get stronger. It is incredible how intelligent, clever and resilient dogs are!  Living here I’ve learned how important it is for ME to care for, pet, play with, talk to and nurture our three dogs.  But it is fascinating to sometimes sit back and watch the pack take care of each other.
Our dogs' pack. Though we only own three of them, the other two have joined for their own security and we can do nothing about it. They all follow us everywhere!

  • Campfire Ash- the best cleanser man or nature can make. Step aside Ajax, Comet, Bar Keepers Friend and Oxiclean! Firewood ash will scrub a burnt pot clean and get grit and grime of any surface. Try it! (ps. many household cleansers in the US used to, or still do use ash in their products 
    Pouch-cooking over an open flame when we didn't have cooking gas
    
  • Shaving razor blades are re-sharpen-able! Stop buying those expensive razor blade cartridges every time yours go dull! You can simply re-sharpen your razor blades by running them in the opposite direction over (preferably course) hair. I use Todd's arm :)  Whereas I used to go through a razor blade approximately once a week, I now use one for up to 3 months! Todd’s of course last much longer since he hasn’t gotten into shaving his legs yet ;)
    
  • Yes you can! make….anything: Americans are pretty obsessed with convenience in the U.S. This means we buy almost everything pre-made and rarely practice ‘Jerry Rigging’. 
A very typical 'Jerry Rigged' fence using an old broken rake as a pole


But when you move away and find these conveniences gone, you are forced to learn the art of self-sufficiency! Here are a few things we have hand-made or repurposed: all food (including breads and cakes, pasta, stocks, sauces, soups, syrups, pumpkin purée, cheese, soda, granola, and one time by accident; butter),  a garden, tomato cages,  fence, window screens, candle holders, baskets, body cooling devices, dog food, barbeque pit, toilet seat, artwork, storage containers.  Once you start, it becomes a fun game to see how many uses you can get out of once piece of, what otherwise might have been considered, garbage!
    
    Home made dog food- cornmeal cooked with beef fat with salt
    
    Our daily bread
    
    One of the many ways one can eat beans
     
    Learning to milk a cow
    
  • A thorough tooth brushing only requires 2 cups of water; bathing just 2 gallons; full scrub down with rinsing, using a bucket and a cup 

  • Donkeys:  the eleventh plague/Gods only lasting curse on the earth: hideous nightmare creatures that ruin everything! arrrg 

  • The value of pizza: Oh the sweet comfort of a familiar and delicious meal! There is not much else we look forward to here. Pizza night is every Friday (and sometimes Saturday and Sunday ). When I asked Todd how to describe how much pizza means to us, he immediately says “Essential….an emotional stabilizer….. it’s  a fixed point we can focus on to get us through a week”. Ha! Yes- It’s THAT important 
    
    A favorite, with back bacon, three kinds of peppers and mozzerella
    
  • There is no limit to the number of people and animals that can fit into a truck. In a place where transportation is rare and difficult, people will do anything to get a ride somewhere; inside, outside, on top, underneath- desperate times call for desperate measures. It's a good thing they don't mind (there is no such thing as personal space here).
    
  • How incredibly resilient the human body is: The first year of bearing through the 9 months of 95-105 degree weather and scorching sun brought a lot of heat sickness and many hours of my day were spent in a cold bath or otherwise trying to drop my internal temp. I was absolutely miserable.  By year 2 the heat still sucked, but I could actually function despite it! An unexpected surprise my body gave me.  

  • If it’s been done for hundreds or thousands of years without ill-effect, you can feel safe eating/drinking it: a rule we go by when choosing which new foods to try. Even the mophane worms...
    
    Components of a traditional medicinal tea I drank, which completely relieved me of a bad cold within 8 hours
    
    Working on the traditional fense that will keep animals out of our garden
    
  • The art of doing nothing: I have never been more INactive in my entire life. After a (long) while though, it became sort of nice. Sitting and watching nature, crawling the web, taking an afternoon nap, petting our dogs. The slow life is good too.   
    
    Todd playing a very common tire racing game with a neighbor kid. Hilarious to watch, the kid didn't stand a chance. 
    
  • Special English: This is the unique type of English you must use when speaking to a Southern African. You learn it pretty quickly, after the use of standard American English fails you time and again. Hard to explain;  it’s a mixture of elementary vocabulary, British English and some Afrikaans terms, and a funny African accent that over-enunciates each word. It’s like learning a whole new language- we only speak Setswana and Special English here. American English is reserved for other PC volunteers and expats.


We celebrated 45 years of Botswana's independance last year. A cake I made with local flowers for a party

Read More 4 comments | Posted by Todd William Wright edit post

"What do you actually do?"


After two years we finally have an answer for you.

These posters are aparently a new-ish fad on the internet?
This has been a question that we have been asked a lot. It is usually followed by a prolonged silence and umm-ing and humm-ing on our side. This isn’t because we don’t do anything. We do. We really do. It’s just hard to pin down and succinctly describe what we do. Peace Corps Botswana is somewhat unique in that the volunteer’s duties are not as specific as some other countries. Many Peace Corps posts (countries) around the world have very specific jobs that volunteers fill; some are English teachers some are forestry advisors some are IT specialists. In Botswana we are called “HIV/AIDS Capacity Builders”, but we may be better described as community development advisors and trainers. HIV/AIDS capacity building in Botswana is a grassroots bottom up approach to compliment the government of Botswana’s top down approach. We help people gain the skills necessary to better address the issues surrounding the HIV/AIDS epidemic in Botswana. We fall into three specialties with the job titles of: District Community Liaisons/District AIDS coordinators, Community Capacity Builders and NGO Capacity Builders. This is the primary assignment volunteers in Botswana, but most of us also work on what we call ‘secondary projects.’  

Primary Assignments

Amanda in an NGO (Non-Governmental Organization) Capacity Builder. She is partnered with a very small community organization called Sekgele Trianing Home Society. When we first came to our village two years ago this small group of community members would best be described as a community based organization (CBO) or even a club. With no paid staff they were all volunteering their time to help the group achieve its goals of representing people with disabilities in the District by providing them with better access to services and education. The organization got a one year grant to fund activities, pay staff and build a small building to operate out of. 
Amanda teaching the club at the primary school
Amanda’s colleagues (2 now-paid staff) at Sekgele, Gosalamang and Ogomoditse, are both very hard working and dedicated people who care a lot about the success of the NGO and its vision. Ogomoditse never finished high school and Gosalamang finished high school but never got the opportunity to continue his education. Both are originally from Gumare and have lived here their whole lives. Amanda’s primary goal at Sekgele has been to build the capacity of the organization, mainly through Gosalamang and Ogomoditse, so they have the skills needed to work toward achieving its vision.
This task takes on many forms for Amanda. Through observation or needs assessments, Amanda is able to spot specific gaps in knowledge that she then trains the group in. For example she has done several in-depth financial management training courses to help the group understand how to manage the various grants they have received. If they were not able to properly manage a grant they would likely never get another one, and misuse the current one. Amanda also does various computer skills training lessons for Sekgele. Amanda has also helped the group with grant applications that have helped to make them sustainable for the near future. This work with Sekgele is roughly half of Amanda’s work load.

Todd Teaching a workshop on cheese making

I am a Community Capacity Builder and was originally stationed at the District Health Management Team (DHMT). The DHMT is a group of heath care professionals and administrators who are in charge of managing all the health facilities and health services across the district. Due to a long list of various circumstances I now don’t spend a lot of time with the DHMT but spend more time with the District AIDS Coordinator’s (DAC) office. I report to the DAC office every morning at 7:30am and usually stay until lunch. I assist the DHMT sporadically as a health education advisor. In the DAC office I am able to offer a different point of view on how to best conduct various HIV/AIDS awareness activities throughout the district. The DAC office’s primary responsibility is to act as an overseer for all HIV/AIDS activities in the district. The office holds an open application period for organizations to apply for funding they want to use for various HIV/AIDS activities. These applications are then reviewed, accepted or denied, and then compiled into a formal proposal to the government for a yearly financial allotment. Then, the activities that are funded are carried out throughout the year under the supervision of the DAC office. This work with the DHMT and DAC offices is roughly half of Todd’s work load.

Secondary Projects

For the second half of our work load we each have several secondary projects. Amanda leads a club of about 30 young students at the elementary school. The goal of the club is to teach the kids “Life skills” that will hopefully help them to make good choices in their lives in the future. The topics they cover are things like: self confidence, goal setting, decision making and self esteem. These are skills that are typically learned in the home in States but are usually not taught in the family setting in Botswana. 
Amanda working with youth on our movie project
Amanda also teaches a class on basic business concepts for community members (mostly women) which has an end goal of creating a detailed business plan that they can use to apply for loans and grants. The norm in Botswana for a beginner small business is to pay a “professional” to write up a business plan they then use to apply for funding. The problem Amanda has observed is that the business often fails because the businesswoman lacks the basic skills needed to take the business plan and turn it into an effective business. They also lack the understanding of their prewritten new business plan, because they were not involved in writing it. The private sector in Botswana is the sector with the biggest growth potential for the nation, and women make up the group with the greatest potential factor for filling it. As a woman in Botswana, owning a business also means independence, security and a step toward gender equality. These are some of the characteristics needed for women to help slow the HIV epidemic.

Support group members making cheese
I work with an HIV support group that meets at the HIV counseling center. The group consists of people who are both infected and affected by HIV/AIDS. The group isn’t the typical psychosocial support type group you would expect like in the States. The group is more focused on income generating activities (IGAs) with the intent of giving the members skills and financial independence. The group also sporadically leads HIV education sessions in the community. They also have an annual People Living With HIV (PLWH) week where they get together with people who are infected to discuss issues relevant to the HIV community in Botswana (which is about half of the sexually active population).
Todd has also started teaching a computer skills course at the middle school. The computer lab was closed for the past two years. Many of the students are far behind on the skills that are important to make them competitive with other students in Botswana. The class follows the usual syllabus of the computer awareness curriculum but with an HIV awareness theme. For example the students created a PowerPoint presentation on how HIV affects their lives and communities.
This is not everything we do but these are some examples of the many projects we have been involved over the past two years.
Amanda teaching the importance of exercise!
This is what we really spend most of our time doing  : )

Read More 0 comments | Posted by Todd William Wright edit post
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Peace Corps in Botswana

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      Todd and Amanda will be serving in the Peace Corps in Botswana from June 2010-June 2012 (with in country training from April - June 2010). Todd's assignment is Community Capacity Builder and Amanda's assignment is NGO Capacity Builder. Both of our jobs will focus on HIV/AIDS.
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